Interview: Eric Freiwald, G.G., A.J.P.
Qualifications: Graduate Gemologist from GIA, Jeweler Program at FIT
Longtime gem lover and professional buyer here at NEJ, Eric Freiwald, Graduate Gemologist, takes some time to answer some regularly asked questions concerning the authenticity of diamonds and precious gems.
What are some tips you can offer for an everyday buyer on identifying real vs. fake diamonds?
The best way to find out for sure if you have a genuine or simulated diamond is to bring it to a specialist to test it for you. A simulated diamond is usually flawless- meaning, it’s just a little too perfect. Most real diamonds that aren’t tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars will have at least one or two small inclusions. Also, the angles of the diamond will often be not as sharp as real or natural diamonds. Another example is, if you have a round cut diamond that you can clearly see through from the bottom, it is likely fake.
It should be noted that synthetic or lab-grown diamonds do not follow the same tell-tale signs as truly natural diamonds. Lab-grown means it is a diamond that has been cultivated in a laboratory, rather than occurring naturally out of the Earth. A way to tell if your diamond is natural or lab-grown is to see if it contains any metallic platinum inclusions, which is to say it may contain little silvery flecks inside that typically can only be viewed under a microscope.
What are some of the most commonly counterfeited gems?
Diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are hands-down the most commonly counterfeited gems, largely because of the price they can be charged for these highly-coveted stones. Other than being synthetic sold as genuine, sometimes other natural stones are sold entirely as something they are not. For example, sometimes you may believe you are buying a sapphire ring when you are actually buying a kyanite.
Black diamonds are often counterfeited. Most commonly, black spinnel and black moissanite are used and sold as black diamonds. Again, the best way to determine if a gemstone is real or…something else, is to bring it in to a specialist that can test it for you. Recently another black diamond simulant called zirconium aluminum oxide has entered the market, so best to think twice if the price looks too good to be true, especially for a large sized stone.
We sometimes have people bring in items they believe to be ivory, who are then disappointed to find out otherwise. How can true ivory be identified?
Ivory has an appearance of being “engine-turned”, meaning there will be curved parallel lines running around it when inspected closely. Also, if it feels or looks like it has hole-like marks of any kind on it, it is likely not ivory, but possibly bone. Sometimes false ivory is made of resin, which is a plastic-like type of synthetic material such as polyurethane, and can look real to an untrained eye. Again it is best to show something you think might be ivory to a specialist.
What is your favorite gem and why?
I am a big fan of all the usual favorites I mentioned earlier- diamond, sapphire, emerald, and ruby. But, I also have a fondness for Cat’s Eye chrysoberyl for it’s uniqueness. My ideal stone, though, would be a Kashmir sapphire set in platinum because it’s just so velvety blue.
Any advice for those interested in pursuing a career in gemology?
Get out there and learn all you can! Other than attending a specialized school in gemology, jewelry, or another related field, you can start by going to gem shows, collecting specimens, and generally building on your knowledge of gems. Look for lectures that are open to the public, and do research online or at your local library, as there is no shortage of information out there.
If you have a question you’d like answered regarding a piece of jewelry you own, feel free to send it in to info@nationalestatejewelers.com, with “Blog Question” in the subject line.
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